Carter's House welcomes the Winter Palace!

Good evening, and welcome. (David Frost used to be good, didn't he?) Here's a strange title for a blog post. As I've said before, and will probably say again, "It's not what you know; it's who you know that really counts!"
Well, we had another invitation from the Winter Palace, this time to the party to celebrate and introduce their new catering venture at the brand new venue of Carter's House on the West Bank!



We gathered with the other VIP's in the Victoria Lounge at the Old Winter Palace for six o'clock, Sofitel were laying on transport for us. Actually, it was a rubbishy motor boat and a few mini-buses once we were on the West Bank. Never mind, we got there safe and sound to be met by a band, of course!



There were a few faces there which I recognised, but they weren't all that photogenic, and anyway the pics I took of them came out all "wobbly" so I deleted them, Haha!
We had an endless supply of drinks and the waiters kept coming around with all sorts of little tasters. Kofta, chicken, veal, giant shrimp things, something Chinese (urgh), battered fish and lovely platters of delightful canapes, eventually two for each table! My favourites were the smoked salmon with caviar.



The band played constantly, but they weren't obtrusive at all, after a while we got the obligatory "Whirling Dervish". He seemed very proficient and made his way around the tables as a photo opportunity for everyone, as well as the "official" cameraman!



Of course, each table had a visit from the different members of the management team, asking our opinions etc. and generally being nice. I was particularly pleased to re-connect with one of the management from the old New Winter Palace, whom we hadn't seen in years.
Anyway, after a while of talking and drinking and eating, we were beckoned to the buffet table. (At this point, I was rather disappointed that I'd had so much of the tasters and canapes!) However, it was only to see a display of the types of snacks etc. which the resident chef would prepare for the visitors on a daily basis, so I was then glad that I'd stuffed myself after all! I've got to say though, it looked absolutely lovely! Here's a few pics:-







All in all, I'd say it was a bold venture, but certainly it will be an exciting dining opportunity for tourists while visiting the Antiquities on the "Side of the Dead"! They open tomorrow, and their normal hours will be 9 till 5, although they will provide a special service for early breakfasts (for hot air ballooners etc.) and for evening meals where the client is prepared to pay for a celebration meal or whatever. I'm sure there will always be some tourists who want to enjoy something a bit special when out and about. This venture deserves to succeed, in my humble opinion!
We joined the Thomson Holidays crew on our journey back across the river, and Freda commented that Carol looked very elegant. Now there's an unexpected compliment!

Just a snippet. (Loose lips sink ships!)

Nothing's been happening around here for a bit, and that's why I've been silent! Life goes on, of course: the "Aluminium People" had a conference at the Sonesta St George last week, I heard it was rivetting, haha. This week it is the turn of the "Cast Iron People", who are having their Symposium at the Nile Palace.(In one of the elevators, if you follow the signs??????????)
Metal Workers of the world: Unite!
During the lull in excitement, I've been carrying on as normal. You know: annoying Freda, cleaning and drinking tea for England. I've also been reading, my most recent one is "A Woman of Cairo" by Noel Barber. Apart from some really quite rude bits, it's a great story and at the moment the narrator is working for British intelligence in Cairo. A bit of a spy, I suppose. It's very exciting!
Talking of spies: I'll bet you didn't know that I had a select team working for me here in Luxor! The latest word, from one of my most trusted sources, is that the Nile Palace is to have two "special" guests this week, Thursday I believe.
So, if you're arriving there on Wednesday, keep a lookout for anyone looking like these two. Keep your distance as one of them has a dangerous gap in his teeth (he may be Terry Thomas in disguise) and the other thinks he is a gun-toting death-defying archeologist!



Terry Thomas.



And Indiana Jones.

Graham Wardrobe.

Hi, not much happening around here this week! Our dead carpenter's brother got our bits of furniture finished, though. You remember Taha the carpenter, nice lad who made our meshrabeya for the guest apartment. Sadly he died later on that year: drowned in the Red Sea, along with his fiance. Here he is, supposedly fitting the arabesque, but had to stop for a half a jar of Nescafe in each cup of coffee! He's the one tasting it.



And I'm sure you remember our old wardrobe which I dismantled the other week and made into two wall cupboards and other assorted rubbish.



Well, we now have the new wardrobe, just delivered and filled with all the stuff which had been stuffed into suitcases or strewn around the other furniture. It's probably not the best wardrobe in the world, nor the prettiest, but it is functional. I took a picture with all the doors open, but the boss wouldn't let me post "private" things! So I'll describe it briefly for you (aren't you grateful, Dear Reader): it's 2 metres wide and 2.1 metres tall, the right hand door contains 6 shelves, the centre two doors have a deep top shelf with long hanging below, whilst the left hand section is for me, with a top shelf, short hanging space and a lower shelf. All very practical. Our old mate (another one sadly deceased) Jim Crow (famous coach builder and general woodworking perfectionist) would have blown his top at the quality of this piece, but then he wasn't working with tools which were hand-me-downs from the pyramid builders!



We are quite taken with it, actually, so much so that we've given it a name! At the grand "Wardrobe Opening Ceremony" it was Christened "Graham", after a good 'bus driver (and rat catcher) friend with similar reliable qualities.

Now that the washing machine is in its new home, Abdu (Taha's brother) made us a new cabinet for the bathroom, it looks quite nice and is also functional. No we haven't given it a name, what nonsense! Whoever heard of a bathroom cabinet having a name? Are you crackers, or what?

Fancy Dress in "Africa" and the "Egyptian Way"

Hi, as you all know I've been abandoned to my own fate here in Luxor! Left to the whims of multifarious darkhearted foreigners. (This is to all to emphasise my calamitous situation to my Mother: who'll then remonstrate with Freda for leaving me by myself!)
Well, actually I'm not, not really! I was rescued by some fellow Trip Advisor Destination Experts, Suziesoose and that thug KV Explorer to be precise. They took me under their collective wing yesterday, we went quad-biking in the afternoon and then they had arranged for dinner at the Africa restaurant on the Side of the Dead. KV even went without his trademark hat and shorts, but don't be too alarmed, he wore long pants instead and in place of his hat he wore an Arabian thingy, like the villain Yasser Arafat. Although I took my Box Brownie on the quads, I forgot to get any pics, duhhhh! However I did remember it whilst at the meal, but then I forgot to wipe the lens so the pics are of my usual quality, sorry. (What do you really expect for free?)

Sorry, but after a complaint that the pics of KV Explorer had frightened some children, I've had to take them down!


Needless to say, we had a marvellous time, the quad-biking was great fun, and no-one fell off, which is always a bonus. Suzie had a bit of a problem, as her quad kept trying to crash into the desert wall, and at one point suddenly veered across the track and nearly ran into a bunch of date palms. The guide rescued her and looked after her after that. KV's trip wasn't without incident either. I was following him, and he seemed to be leaning right over to the right (as if he'd ricked his back), I wondered if there was something wrong with his quad as well. We stopped and swapped machines, as he said that his was pulling to the right all the time. (I have to say, though, that it was fine for me. I eventually deduced, dear Watson, that he has one arm about a foot longer than the other, and that's why his picture on the TA Luxor Forum is only a head and shoulder shot!)
The meal at Africa was good and wholesome, as you'd expect, and afterwards KV and I both had shishas. That man's just a rotten egg! He forced Suzie (a non-smoker) to have a puff of his apple shisha, the beast. Actually she was quite taken by it and spent the rest of the time texting friends and family to tell them all. KV is obviously quite a "lady killer" as well, and confided in me that Suzie's Mam has been after him the whole holiday. But when he tried to get her to smoke the shisha also, she shied off, maybe suspecting some cunning plan to seduce her. I don't know what his lovely little wife would have thought of that, though.
When we eventually got back to the civilisation of the East Bank, we sat out front at the Etap, far away from the wonderful singer, and had drinks and convivial conversation till we made our separate ways to bed.
All in all, it was a great time and I want to express my thanks publicly! So thank you Mr. Three Compressors and wife, and thank you Suzie and Mam.

Today, I made another teapot for Tutti Frutti Cafe (no pictures, as yet) and took it across there to be painted etc. Christine wasn't there, so her understudy, (Irish Lorraine) took pity on me and gave me a lunch consisting of a piece of very nice chicken and vegetable pie with mashed spuds, mushrooms and a white sauce, followed by some apple and cinnamon pie with fresh cream. As you would expect of this establishment: it went down a treat! Of course it also came with a pot of tea.
By the time I got back home, I thought that I'd try a glass of chai at Adam's coffee shop across the street.



While I sat there, generally enjoying watching the people passing to and fro and taking in the pleasant ambiance of our little alley, Adam was brushing the street (it's less than 6ft wide, by the way). I was a bit surprised when he stopped when he got to the road and just left the detritus there, in a pile. But then I came to my senses, that's the "Egyptian Way" i.e. leave it for someone else!



Two men were fastening up a sign for Mr. Gamal's Wedding Shop, just next to where I was positioned, obviously "Egyptian Way" professionals. What better fixing than bent nails and a length of twisted wire?



Just next to the sign, I noticed someones fuse box, what can I say?



And these are the people who conceived and built the fabulous and huge Pyramids at Giza, and the breathtakingly beautiful Funerary Temple of Queen Hatshepsut here on the West Bank and also the awesome and intimidating Temples of Abu Simbel on Egypt's Southern border.
The "Egyptian Way"! What do you think of it?

"Yes, God is good!"

Hi, I’m sorry to have been silent for so long, but I’ve been busy. (busy busy bee, in fact!) And now, I’m all alone as Freda has run off to Windy Nook to tend to our distressed children, or was it to tend to cause distress to our children? I’m never quite sure, but as you all know I’m good at keeping schtum!

The title of the post is taken from an old favourite hymn of mine, probably no longer sung in Methodism as I don’t think it’s in the “new” hymnbook. Grrrrrrrrr! You’ll see the relevance later on.

We’ve been spending money that we haven’t got, “Is that new?” I hear you ask. Well not really, we’ve become experts at it over the years. But we did need to have our own little kitchen, I’m sure none of you would begrudge us that? We started off with a wardrobe in our bedroom which was “built in” to a substantial alcove.




Our washing machine was in the bathroom,
like many Egyptian households, and our
cooking apparatus; on the sideboard, next
to the fridge, in the living room.

The idea has been fermenting for quite some time to “do something” about it. Well we’ve done it now! Out came the wardrobe,



I’ve never seen so many panel pins in my life, or so many masonry nails, each one either snapping and leaving a half inch sticking out, or coming out with a big chunk of cement still fastened to it! Absolutely crackers! I’ll kill that Hamada the carpenter if I get my hands on him. Never mind, it’s all lying around on the roof terrace at the moment, along with various tools and bits of old pipework it’s a good job we haven’t got any guests just now.








The new plumber (another Girges, who is also known to Igor, Girges the doctor’s assistant) was brought to me by our old friend Al Fatah, from Qus. (Isn’t this nice and confusing, Dear Reader?) Al Fatah, more commonly known as Abdul, oversaw the original work to make our building habitable, and he had been a good friend for many years before. Mr Girges the plumber would price the job of making a new drainage system for the air-conditioners, changing the pipework to accommodate the new kitchen sink and the new position of the washing machine, etc. It’s taken him since last Thursday till today to finish it, mind you, he had three days off during that time! Of course, you cannot leave a workman in the house alone with the woman of the house, so I had to be there all the time he was, which made things a bit awkward for me going to the West Bank each day.

Anyway it’s about finished now, well, usable at least. I’ll get around to making a bench type thingy to go under the sink in the near future. I’ve reused the top cupboard doors to make two shallower cupboards above the sink, with a concealed light below so that I can see the dishes when I’m washing them. While I was on making Mr Ramadan redundant, I also put two separate sockets in! I wouldn’t dare try that at home, as I’m badly colour blind, but here it doesn’t matter ‘cause there are only two wires, so you really cannot go wrong.






Freda kindly gave me instructions on how to use the washing machine before she abandoned me; they are Sellotaped onto the wall above the sink!



I’ve spent a good few hours taking nails of one sort or another out of all the plywood and spars which combined to make the wardrobe. I don’t want to waste all the lovely timber, but I’m not sure where I can keep it all. I think the roof might collapse if I put any more up there!

I’m not good at being by myself! In fact, this is the first time in my entire 59 years that I’ve actually been by myself. I’m constantly checking things when I go out, keys (I have a deadly fear of losing keys), wallet, phone, stair lights on, two hankies. It’s like being an obsessive compulsive (is that the right term?). I HATE it!!!!!!
Yesterday, I went to visit the boys at the Sunrise Tours office. Got the ‘bus at the bottom of the street on Sharia Karnak. After being there for an hour or so, I decided to ring our lawyer to try (again) to get some sense out of him. When I went for my phone: it wasn’t there. Horror of horrors! I was certain I’d picked it up! Got Mohamed (don’t even go there, as the Americans say) to dial my number, and it was switched off. This confirmed to me that someone else had it, I never switch it off. Anyway, I dejectedly trudged home, in the vain hope that I had left it there, switched off. No! It was nowhere to be seen.
Spent the next hour or so emailing away, as I knew Freda would be worried that she was getting no reply on the phone, and eventually went to my lonely bed!
The doorbell rang at shortly after 9 o’clock this morning, I thought it was rather early for Rashad the cleaner, who usually calls at around lunchtime. When I peered over the railing there was Adam (coffee shop) looking back at me, holding something black in his hand. “That’s my phone!” I shouted down. And sure enough, it was. His second son, (Yousef, about 12) had found it on Sharia Karnak. When he brought it home, Adam had looked in the contacts list, and seen his own name there along with that of Al Fatah and one or two others we both knew, and eventually deduced that it must be mine. I was flabbergasted! It must have been a million to one chance of my neighbour finding it so far from home. I gave Adam 10le for the boy. (I hope he got it.)

The (un) Usual Suspects!

Hello again. I've just got back from Sofra (the restaurant in Luxor which does all Egyptian food and is tastefully furnished with Egytpian antiques) where I had been invited to share a meal with Mr eLaReF and his wife. They were celebrating Mrs eLaReF's birthday and also their wedding anniversary. It was also..........a Trip Advisor Destination Experts for Luxor get together!
The eLaReF's were already there when I arrived, he's a big fellah, and was instantly recognisable as the bloke I was looking for. We chatted for a few minutes before the others arrived. Suziesooze brought her travelling companion (really her mam), and KV Explorer brought his charming wife. We made for an odd gathering, I can tell you. KV's trademark hat was worn (as ever), but he'd managed to steal or borrow a pair of long pants from somewhere. eLaRef even had a tie on!
KV and his wife had kindly brought some ginger snaps and jelly babaies for Freda and I (along with several bars of Wright's Coal tar soap, which had stunk their suitcase out!). And Susie had a bagful of TA goodies, caps, tee shirts, key rings etc. along with some magazines for Freda, I struggled to carry the bags home!!!!
We started off with a selection of hot mezzes and drinks and after a good while, ordered our respective main courses. We ate at a leisurely pace, and the conversation was not really interupted by the eating. I think everyone enjoyed the food, which was steaming hot and properly cooked. The others had several fruit juices, and I had water. KV and I had apple shishas while the desserts were served. All in all, it was a very pleasant evening. While the others went on to the Winter Palace to be with the posh folks, I returned home to do a bit of cleaning (for a change, I'll tell you about that later) and to write it up for you lot!

So here they are, from left to right:
Mrs eLaReF, eLaReF, KV Explorer, Mrs KV, Suzies Mam, and Suziesooze.




Don't try to stick pins in them, it'll damage your screen.

Inter-connected tales from a "Saga" writer who is losing his mind.

When Mrs Akshar wrote “We think it’s all over” on Trip Advisor in reference to the water problem here in Luxor, I was sorely tempted to add the famous “It is now!” But I managed to refrain as it was a bit obvious and old hat, to boot. Also, of course, it would have been a mis-quote anyway. Never mind, good old Matt (m151cat) didn’t miss the opportunity to make the point not long afterwards.

I’ve now emptied all of our containers of water and started on the job of washing everything. I’ve stopped just now, because my back is aching. We had the water pump switched off too, ‘cause if the water had been turned off when we were asleep, or out, the motor would have burnt itself out trying to pump what wasn’t there!

Sorry, just stopping for a moment to get a yogurt from the fridge for Freda, as she would have to get off the bed to get it herself. Poor lamb, it’s a heavy book she is reading!

Anyway………the water emergency does seem to be past, I’m pleased to report. My worst fears were, as usual, a bit over the top. I find it difficult to imagine anything being done efficiently in this country, not because I’m naturally cynical (it’s taken 40 years of training to get me like this!) but because I have been trying for three years to find anyone here who can REALLY do anything properly.

While we’re on about cleaning (well, washing pots and pans), I’m reminded why I sat and started this tonight! After years of trying different men and women to clean our stairs reasonably well, I gave up and decided to just bite the bullet, and do them myself. It’s a job I don’t like, but it has to be done. Apart from getting covered (like everything else) with the dust and sand from the Sahara, we also have the visitors to the doctors surgery on the first floor making their usual Egyptian mess.

A few months ago, one of the men who work in the “Government” shop was complaining about his measly wages of 10 le per day. I regularly see him passing the end of our street on his bike, and supposed (correctly) that he passes within 20 feet of our stairs four times each day. A light came on in my head! Good old Girges, I wonder if he can be persuaded to spend ten minutes a day, while passing, to sweep the lower stairs for 40% of his normal wages for working all day? Sounds like a pretty good deal, if you ask me! Not to cause unnecessary embarrassment to either of us, I wrote a note asking him if he knew anyone who might undertake this little task, and had one of my friends translate it before giving it to him. I was dumbfounded on the following day when he said that he was sorry, that he would have helped me out himself, but he didn’t have the time with working in the shop.

Never mind! Eventually, I managed to get hold of someone I’d tried before, but the last time I had wanted him to sweep and wash the stairs from top to bottom, which proved to be too much for him to cope with. Nevertheless, just sweeping the two flights of stairs and the entrance surely wouldn’t tax his brain or body beyond their normal limits? We are talking here about Mr Rashad, ex-Amoun man (street sweeper) and general dogsbody of other people around here. Using various people to interpret, he and I eventually agreed that he would come every day and sweep the lower stairs, entrance and pick up the rubbish in the alley for 5 le (cash) per day. Lo and behold! He comes every day, except when he doesn’t, that is. He’s not thoroughly reliable, but he’s the best we have, and I mean to keep him!!!!


The rather shy, Mr Rashad.


Well: yesterday, I got a telephone call from Dr Yacoub’s assistant (another) Girges. We’ll call him Igor, so as not to confuse you further, dear reader. Igor took a full two minutes to tell me that Mr Rashad was waiting downstairs for my instructions! Being still in the land of Nod, I leapt up and slipped into my fashionable galabeya and leaned over the roof terrace to tell him to “Get on with it!” It wasn’t until I went down to pay Mr Rashad that I wondered why he hadn’t rung the doorbell? But he had, it wasn’t working!



Today, I thought I’d better get Mr Ramadan out, of course you all remember the famous “Spitting Electrician”, Mr Ramadan from a former post. After getting Adam (coffee shop) to interpret over the phone, I asked Adam to get Ramadan to give me a “missed call” when he arrived. The next thing was another call from Igor!!!!! “Ah, Meester Adward, Ramadan is here”. As I trotted back down the stairs, I met Mr Ramadan on the way up, with the bell-push in his grubby hand. “Ahhhhh, Meester Adward, electric finish! Finish, Meester Adward!” As I new perfectly well that the electric wasn’t “finish” I dragged him back downstairs to converse through Adam (coffee shop) to find out what the old fool was on about. Of course, I have every confidence in Mr Ramadan’s professionalism, but it was tested beyond its limit when Adam translated that he wanted to put in new wiring from top to bottom, and that the wire alone would cost 175 le! I nearly hit the roof!


Adam in his small coffee shop.

On dragging Mr Ramadan back into the building, all the while repeating “Mish faloose, mish faloose!” (No money, no money!) he started to pull wires out from here and there, tapping the side of his head, and smiling inanely at me, and saying “Ahhhh, Mr Ramadan, hahaha!” Honestly, with Igor downstairs and Mr Ramadan manically laughing and spitting: it’s like being in a madhouse at times! When we got up the stairs he took down the bell and tested it in a socket, it was ok.

Eventually, he climbed onto the top of the stair wall (purposely refusing the steps so that he could leave dirty marks on the painted plaster!) and, hanging onto the iron railings, pulled a bundle of wires out from behind the wall. He snipped away at these, and taped the ends up, and then dragged some of them along the wall towards the water pump switch, in its lovingly constructed meshrabeya box.

It was just at this point that I thought “I’ll switch the pump back on, while I’m here.” So I did, and the doorbell began to ring! I switched it off, and the doorbell ceased! I did this quite a number of times before it sank in that the doorbell was actually fed from the business side of the water pump switch and hadn’t worked because it was SWITCHED OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!




Mr Ramadan gleefully joined all the wires back up and replaced the bell-push outside the front door, and then looked to me for payment, whilst all the while making it seem like HE had solved the problem with his razor-sharp brain. I could have killed him, but paid up instead, because the poor man has to travel up to Assuit at midnight to see his wife who is there in hospital. Their problem made my embarrassment seem wholly insignificant.
God bless you both, Mr and Mrs Ramadan!

Water water everywhere, but not a drop to drink.....literally!

Well, this is a queer kettle of fish, and no mistake! The picture below is our carry-on case, which I've just used to bring 15 litres of Baraka water from Ahmed's little supermarket down in Yousef Hassan Street. (The Mohsen Market, for those of you who know the area. Ahmed is also a local plumber as I've mentioned on here before.) I would have rather bought a box, but I don't think I would have survived the stairs, in all honesty.



The reason for hoarding water? In all probability, we shall be "cut off" tomorrow for a couple of days! Someone has sunk a cargo vessel loaded with around 1000 tons of fuel, 100 tons of which have leaked out into the river. "Charming", I can hear you say.
The government departments are enacting their "emergency plans" and hope to contain the fuel in the Aswan area, but I believe it will prove to be an impossible task, and that they will close off the filtration and purification plants as soon as they know that they are unable to keep the drinking water safe. So, thanks to warnings on the Luxor4u forums, we are stockpiling like crazy!





As I went out of the building to buy the Baraka, I came across Adam in his coffee shop over the road (lol at "over the road", he's about five feet away). He and his wife have four boys, and they'll use some water during two days, I'll be bound. His wife was busy filling every container she can lay hand to. When I got out into the street, I came across Nashat (the tailor from the souk), a normally placid fellow who was wound up enough to be raging against the government. "What about the poor people? How will they manage?"

When I came back with my laden case, I promised to bring some empty bottles down for Adam. "No, no Mr Edward, just send them down on the string." (Now, I need to explain this to the uninitiated. Being on the roof, with 83 stairs: we have a bucket on a string, which we can let down to the street door. When the electric man comes and rings the doorbell, he then puts the bill in the bucket and we send the money back down. This happens with several people, and if we haven't got any money, I peep over the roof terrace wall and just pretend we're not in! Anyway, it all saves my poor old legs. OK?) After struggling up the stairs with my 15 kilos of water, I had a breather and then put the bottles (I only had 6, though) in a bag, clipped it onto the string and lowered away. I almost broke into a sea-shanty at this point, but I get into trouble with Freda for frightening the neighbours, so desisted. After gently letting it down the 5 floors (quickly past the doctor's window though, in case any of his thieving patients grabbed at it as it went past) I shouted for Adam, and shouted for Adam, and shouted for Adam. (No, the record hasn't stuck!) Then I whistled, and shouted for Adam, several times. In a state of some frustration, I eventually decided to go down the stairs again and get him by the hand!!!!! Yes, you've guessed it, just as I opened the street door, there was Adam taking the last bottle out of the bag! Apologising profusely for making me trail all the way down the stairs, he forced me to take a seat in the coffee shop and have one of his cigarettes before he would let me mount the stairs again. Well, you have to be sociable at times like this, don't you?
Poor Freda was, in the meantime, trying to find receptacles to hold water for our own needs. Here they are, taking up the shower and the livingroom floor.
InshAllah, it will all be sorted out by morning, but you never know?

NEW TOUR COMPANY HITS LUXOR
When I noticed the sign in the picture below, I immediately thought of Karen the Copper, our Welsh friend.



Do you think they are giving tours of Luxor Police, or are the Luxor Police at last joining all the rest and proclaiming themselves to be tour operators. I wonder if they have a licence?

Bye for now, I'm off to have another cuppa before bed.

Still "Ringing the Changes" on the East and the West.

Well, it's all happening here in Luxor!
I was on the West Bank yesterday, visiting a place I go to regularly, I've posted pictures of the Wall before, but it seems that it's virtually finished now. My mate's place is all the worse for it, I'm afraid. You cab see what I mean by these two pictures which were taken from within a few metres of each other. I don't think I need to entitle them "Before" and "After"!!!!





Of course you are all conversant with what's been happening near to the Winter Palace. I've had a few pictures on here about the Aboudi Book Shop and it's demise, well Mr Aboudi wasn't the only friend who was displaced. Here is Mr Jadhalla, perhaps better known to you as Mr Shakespeare, the felucca captain who had his office in the garden next to Mr Aboudi's.



I've put this particular picture of him on because it was actually taken in his "office". The next picture is taken from a previous post:



And this last one was taken today from about the same place. The tarmac road is new, and finishes just about exactly where Mr Jadhalla had his office and where he was sitting when I took the picture above.



I know everything needs to change as time marches on, but it's still sad, isn't it?

And the winner is......................

Yes, the first person to contact me with the correct answer was...........
DivaDarling, from Trip Advisor. Being a long-term sufferer from Luxoritis, she must have recognised the antique mirror or the furniture in the pictures. (Might have been the menus, which were a dead give-away on enlargement!) Anyway, it was lovely, and now I have the option of visiting either one of two of my favourite places when I'm up that end of town.
One or two folk have commented that the Oasis might be competition for Tutti Frutti, but I rather think that they will complememt each other, along with the other restaurants on that street.
Starting at the St Joseph end: you have the Tudor Rose, very nice for a more formal/intimate meal, then, past Arkwrights shop, the Oasis is next with a wide menu catering for all sorts of tastes in a very different atmosphere. Next door is the famous Tutti Frutti, where the tea is as lovely as the welcome, and the cakes and scones are to die for. (So is the PIE!!!!) Another few steps and we are outside the "Taste of India", whose wonderful reviews speak for themselves, although I cannot comment as the thought of the smell of curry puts me off from even entering, sorry. Next comes the new "Pizza Roma", again, not my cup of tea, but I've heard some very good reports regarding their food! Another minute or so and around the corner is "Puddleduck", which I am assured merits it's top spot on the Trip Advisor restaurant list, directly opposite are the new ventures of the Taste of India owner, which I expect will soon earn the same high reputation, they are the Fortune Cookie (Chinese, obviously) and upstairs, the Regal Grill.
Unlike any other street in Luxor, all these eateries are entirely different and as visitors pop into their favourite one they cannot but notice some of the others and quite possibly think "Oh, I've heard of that place, let's have a nose in there tomorrow." I'm certain that the diversity and quality of these eating places will ensure regular patronage for them all.
The following picture explains part of the reason why we aren't getting out much during the day.



It was taken after 4 o'clock today.
See ya!

It's nee gud bein' poor and lookin' poor!

That used to be a popular saying where I grew up, as most of the local folk were not what we could call "well off". The point was that even poor folk could get themselves done up when the need arose.
One of the changes which really made me think about the better financial situation of my generation compared with that of my parents was when I started to notice the number of restaurants in the local telephone directory! I cannot recall my parents ever going out "for a meal", let alone taking us brats along with them. Nowadays it's common practice, and no less here in Luxor.
We don't eat out all that often, and when we do it's only in one of a very small number of eating establishments. Tonight, we went to a newly opened restaurant which already has a substantial following, we had the same to eat as we have had there on previous occasions, and it was as delightful as ever. Strange?
I took a few pictures, and here are the best two of them. Any clues, anyone? Actually there are clues aplenty in the pictures





Oh, I nearly forgot to mention that it's right next door to another of my all-time favourite fuel stops.
If I get some time tomorrow; I may get around to putting you out of your misery. Meanwhile, you can either send your answers on a post card, or leave a comment on this blog.
Nighty night!

My husband, the carpenter?

Because our two apartments are on the 3rd and 4th floors of our building we need to have a pump to ensure adequate water pressure for the showers etc. The pump switch was located just inside the guest apartment door, in a little alcove so no one could see it. Our problem has been when we have had a water cut and the pump begins to make terrible noises as it has no water to pump, if we have guests staying it is not always convenient to go into the guest apartment to switch the pump off until the water comes back on again.
“Move the switch” we agreed. Eventually we got our local electrician, Mr. Ramadan, to come and move the switch onto the wall outside of the apartment so we could access it at any time. Problem number two occurs when I see the switch, it is at eye height and is an eyesore, every time I come up the stairs it is there looking decidedly ugly.
Edward decides to build a box to hide it. We have plenty pieces of wood stored on top of our roof, saved from various jobs my carpenter husband has done before. Last week out comes pencil and paper, tool box and several bits of wood.
One week later I go downstairs to find a wooden frame around the switch, which is slightly lopsided (“Egyptian, is it?”, I comment). Although Edward has taken several measurements he had not realised that the back plate was not level at the top, hence the lopsided appearance.
Today he has been working away with his tools, pencil, paper and pieces of wood for most of the day. He has been in for lunch, had a break to have a glass of lemon and several forays into our living room to get out of the sun and drink copious amounts of water. Because he has been out in the sun on the roof terrace for the best part of 2 days he is beginning to resemble a beetroot, yesterday he did not wear a shirt and his shoulders are red, today with his shirt on, it is just his face which is getting redder.
At teatime I leave him to it and go out, we meet up later and arrive home about 9.30 I am first up the stairs to see the effort of his many hours of work, is it an improvement, I will leave that for you to decide. Here are the before and after photos





(Editor's note: Watch out for the next instalment "How to mend a broken nose"!!!!!)

Winter Palace: ongoing!

With it being so darned hot, (45ish every day) we're tending to use the buses a lot, instead of walking. That being the case, we haven't been around the Winter Palace area for a little while, so I was a bit surprised to see, when mooching around down there, that they are actually getting on with the job!
Someone, on one of the forums, was saying that the foundations for the new building were going in the other week. I thought at the time that it seemed a touch "previous", but withheld my judgement until I saw it with my own eyes. As it happens, they were preparing the ground for a perimeter fence, which is now up (chain link for Egyptian authenticity, lol) with a lovely row of trees which will mask the fence from view quite soon.

As always, click once on the picture to make it bigger, and again to magnify it.






The ground on the outside of the fence has been tramped down by running a big machine over it, and is all dust. Obviously I had to walk over this to get to the fence to take some photo's, and I came across this........



It's about 2 inches in diameter, and I've no idea if it's still live or not, I certainly wasn't going to lick my finger and touch it to find out!!!!!

Looking through the fence, it's plain to see where the Aboudi shop was, and the back of the "Winter Pavillon" is in more or less full view.






They're knocking down the old WP garden wall, and digging near to the "New" Winter Palace site, and piling the earth onto the lovely lawn where the tower block used to stand.






It is quite fascinating, trying to imagine the new building (as in the huge poster) actually taking shape as time goes on! I'll keep you posted from time to time.

There but for the Grace of God.

We were watching "The West Wing" on the laptop (the complete "Boxed Set", a gift from our son) when we were aware of a commotion outside somewhere. It sounded a bit like a football crowd, heard from a few streets away. We often get deafening eruptions of yelling, which are repeated all over town, when one of the favourite football teams score a goal. Of course, it seems that all Egyptian men are avid football fans, and even though they don't actually attend at the games, they are all glued to a TV somewhere to watch any match which is televised.
On turning off the sound, we soon realised that it wasn't that at all as they were womens' voices we were hearing, and they weren't yelling.......they were wailing!
It was about 11.15, so we were not dressed for going out, but I wanted to see what had happened. I threw on some clothes and trundled downstairs, stepping over the rubbish which had been strewn about (purposely so, because Freda had reprimanded some doctor's visitors for blocking the newly cleaned stairs and making their usual mess) by the childlike numbskulls which pass for men around here.
When I got to the entrance of our little cul-de-sac, I was surprised to see the traffic backed up, in two lanes, for as far as I could see. The cause was a tumult of men milling around outside the small Mosque on the corner, the wailing was coming from along one of the streets opposite, which looked completely blocked.
I asked Adam if he knew anything. (Of course I knew that he would know ALL, him being the nearest we have to an old gossip.) Apparently a young man of 32 from the same street, had taken ill two days ago, and now he had died.
I had taken the camera down, but, even for you dear reader, I couldn't really be seen to take photos of mourning people, neither would I want to.
If you haven't heard Egyptian women wailing, then you will probably think (as I did) that it is wrong for them not to be allowed to attend funerals, but after experiencing this, I'm not so sure any more. It's now midnight, but I think the noise will keep the whole neighbourhood awake for some hours yet. Al Hamdulillah! (Praise be to God in all circumstances.)

Spook at Carter's House.

We've wanted to go to the new Museum at the house of Howard Carter (discoverer of the fabulous tomb of the "Boy King" Tut Ankh Amun in 1922) since it was opened as such in November last year. However, you know how things just slip by and get put off? We haven't had a real excuse to free up the time until today!
Well, we have a group friends, four sisters from the "Black Country", who come each year to visit the "Black Land" and they landed last Wednesday for a week at the Etap Hotel. They are known collectively as "The Wenches". They don't always come altogether, and this time there are only Glen and Mar, who are the two most interested in Egypt's history etc.
I suggested that we visit this relatively new attraction together, and they both thought it a good idea! We arranged a mini-bus to collect us this morning and whip us away to the "Side of the Dead".
The House is quite interesting, with the various rooms furnished and mocked up something like they would have been during Howard Carter's residence. I took several photo's, but being my usual rubbish self with the camera, they are too embarrassingly bad to put on here!!!! Never mind, though, I got some of the Great Man" himself when he deigned to come and speak to us.






To be perfectly honest, I don't really know what I expected. But this was a seriously clever bit of work! I'm pretty sure that the "powers that be" will soon realise the potential of what they have here, and slap on an entrance fee, but even if they do: it'll still be worth paying to go and see. At one point, he even gives us a slide show from the projector on the table onto the wall at the right, it's truly a "Magic" Lantern Show.
If you get the chance to go, please don't miss it. All you need to do is lose the guardian who follows you around with unwanted directions and comments, otherwise an excellent visit. It will be even better when the promised Tearoom is open!

More Lights.

When I saw the West Bank Lights on again tonight, I hi-tailed it down to the Emilio Hotel, to see if I could take some pictures from their roof. The manager (Mr Showkat) and I are old friends from when we would often stay there while we were tourists.
Of course, it "wouldn't be a show without Punch" would it! I just happened to call whilst they were having some sort of electrical problem, which meant that the lifts weren't working. However, this was not going to stop your intrepid reporter. I don't mind risking a heart attack for my public!!!!! (Just joking, Mam, don't worry)
140 steps later, and I was thinking rather differently, I can tell you. Never mind, the view from the Emilio rooftop acted like a defibrilator, and perked me up no end!
I hope you all like it as much as I.
The first one shows Hatshepsut's Funerary Temple.



This next one is a replacement for the "old" Mountain Lights picture which so many people thanked me for.



This last one is an amalgam of the two.



As usual you can click to enlarge them, and click again to magnify. Have fun.