Men with Beards!!!!!

Howdy, I'm speaking like someone from the 'Wild West' because that's what it seems like here in Luxor at the moment, well it does to some casual observers anyway.

I'm certain that any of you lot (who care about Luxor) will have heard the latest news regarding our new Governor. Yes, that's right; he's a founder member of the (former) terrorist group which committed the Hatshepsut tourist massacre in 1997, and which was also supposedly responsible for the assassination of Egypt's former president, Anwar Sadat! Not an obvious choice, one would think. But then, who would have expected Mr McGuiness to now wield so much political power in Northern Ireland, after his shenanigans in his previous role as a high ranking IRA man? Or, come to that, many of the Israeli politicians of recent years, after their former terrorist allegiances.

Well, the politically aware of Luxor could only manage a 26% turnout in the Presidential election, or so I believe. (Similar to the turnout in my English hometown for Mr T Bliar's last government!) And this is what non-engagement gets you; government edicts (and appointments) which you really don't want!

We noticed a serious column of black smoke rising from the Corniche area, near the Luxor Supreme Council building, from our rooftop eerie. Of course we'd heard that the tourism folk were protesting against the Governor's appointment, and we actually feared that someone had set fire to the Council building! Obviously, being intrepid as we are, we just had to investigate on your behalf, Dear Reader.

Our equally brave transport provider was telephoned, and duly turned up with Edward the horse in the shafts, and little Bedawy (nicknamed 'Mido' after the footballer) perched on top next to himself. Away we went!

This is the scene which greeted us as we approached the Savoy Bazaar on the Corniche, burning tyres at both ends of the demomnstration. Not very inviting, I must admit!

Nevertheless, we reporters have to suffer for our 'art'! I dismounted, crossed the road onto the river side pavement, and got in among the business. I met a couple of tourists who were actually coming out of the melee, who seemed quite un-fazed, which surprised me somewhat after reading all the scaremongering tripe on TripAdvisor recently. Never mind, I plodded on, into the crush!

Here's a little, poor quality as usual, movie, so you can use your imagination to get an idea of what it was actually like.

Several strangers spoke to me, to reassure me that tourists were safe in this crowd. I was rather taken aback to see at least three men whom I knew to be senior managers in top tourist hotels among those gathered! I actually spoke to two of them, separately. They were both there to register their utter disappointment that such a man (with beard, although I don't think he actually has one!) with such a background, should be placed in this crucially imortant position.

It was explained to me that the purpose of the gathering was to actually stop the new man from entering his office and taking up his position. So far, they seem to have succeeded, but heaven knows what's to come. I mean, would any other elected government stand for such blatently illegal activity?

Well, I'd better be off to bed now, 'cause we're up again in less than four hours to catch our EgyptAir flight to Cairo, where we connect (Insh'Allah) with their onward flight to Manchester International!

See you soon, in Windy Nook.

Ringing the Changes?

Well, there's not much to report as far as I can see. Some people are up in arms about a supposed lack of police on the streets; but it seems to me that there are actually more than ever! It doesn't matter where we go, we come across groups of them. (They're like the Geordies in that old song, "Wherever ye gan you're sure to find a Geordie!") Every tourist hotel has at least one plain clothes officer and one uniformed one, there are pick-up trucks full of them at many of the major road junctions, all the Christian Churches have at least one outside in uniform (and sometimes several) Gold Street (the continuation of Mustapha Kamel Street where all the gold shops are situated) has a pick-up truck full at the top end and a plain clothes officer and his uniformed mate at the other end. Then we have all the new 'Wendy Houses' scattered around, these seem to be manned a lot of the time, and all this is without mentioning the motor-bike snatching gangs which suddenly appear anywhere and stop all the youths on motor cycles; confiscating them for the slightest infringement. (Not before time!!!)

Never mind, there are changes afoot in Luxor; here's one that you'll not see again:

That's correct; it's your's truly, putting some kofta on the grill! It's really the job of this next bloke, Hassan at Chez Omar's restaurant down the street.

It's quite possible that you might think that you know this man, but by another name; Hussein? That's OK, Hussein is his identical twin! We have several of them in our small community, the other nearest ones who are two huge lads, I'd hate to have to keep the two of them going with food! We had kofta and chips for our lunch today, that's another change, as we usually have kofta in the evening.

We're busy cleaning, and making changes to try to reduce the temperature in the guest apartment. We don't usually rent it during the summer, but summer came early this year, and we've been experiencing temperatures up towards the 50 degree mark during the past six weeks or so, already! We have a lady coming tomorrow, and with the addition of sun-block curtains on the balcony; we've managed to knock about 5 degrees off the livingroom temperature during the hot  afternoons. I'm so pleased! (It's now really quite comfortable, at around the 27/28 mark.)

I've also made a significant change to our livingroom upstairs. I've clagged (Colloquialism: clagged = stuck on) some 40mm thick expanded polystyrene sheets to the inside of the wall which gets the sun nearly all day. They've reduced the inner surface temperature considerably, which means that the A/C doesn't have to work quite so hard! Depending on whether I can get a good decorative finish on the polystyrene, I might even have a go at doing the same in the guest apartment. Changes, changes, changes!

As I was hanging the newly cleaned curtains in the guest livingroom, I was aware of a lot of hammering outside. Looking over the balcony, I saw what looked like a bomb-site!

It wasn't till I actually went out, that I saw just how bad the situation was!

The two dikkehs (bench-like seats) lying on their ends against the walls at either side, have just been repaired with about a stone of three inch nails and bits of scrap timber, by a 'carpenter'. They've been (along with some other scrap furniture also belonging to Coffeeshop Adam) cluttering up the street for some time now, and he's promised time and again that 'some man' will be taking it all away 'bukra' (tomorrow). But we know he's a fibber, don't we, Dear Reader?

Anyway, more changes here, as he's re-shaped the coffeeshop yet again, and it's being decorated by a professional painter. Here he is with a very proud Mr Adam Osman:

Insh'Allah, they'll have it all finished, and the street cleared, by the time our new guest arrives tomorrow night. (Who am I kidding?)

Moving on: You remember how the old Mercure Hotel (the Etap to many of you) was taken over by Misr Travel and suddenly renamed the El Luxor Hotel? Well, what do you think of this?

There you are; Egyptian spelling aside, it's now back to being the Etap!!!!

So, there you have it Dear Reader, 'Change Is'. (That was the name of a Newcastle night-club, many moons ago, owned, if I'm not mistaken, by the famous comedian Bob Monkhouse!)

What a Shower!

Yes, I could be talking about the members of practically any country's Government, but I'm actually thinking of myself and Messrs Ideal Standard!

We've had the same shower cubicle in our guest apartment since we first designed it. As some of you will remember, it's a quarter circle job, with sliding doors:

I was quite taken by the thought of it, when I first saw it in the catalogue at Ahmed Hashim's bathroom shop on Madina Street. "How novel", I thought. I hadn't imagined that it would be anything less than perfectly adequate for our needs or the needs of our guests.

I was right, naturally! However, even with the best will in the world, it couldn't be described as 'unadulterated luxury' could it? My increasing dissatisfaction with it, came to a head last year, when a (rather large) American gent happened to mention that he did struggle a bit in the shower, but of course he did actually manage.

'Managing' just isn't good enough, at Our Luxor! This gentleman's remark fired me to do something about the shower, as soon as funds (and time) became available. Mind you Dear Reader, these things cannot be rushed!

I've had a goodly number of new designs for the guest bathroom running through my mind, including remodelling it altogether. One of the biggest problems (the other being the lack of cash, obviously!) has been the fear of starting the job, and then not being able to manage to complete it before the arrival of our next guests. After all, we are in Luxor; where "Bukra, insh'Allah" (Tomorrow, God willing) can very quickly, and invariably does, become "Bad'n bukra, insh'Allah" (After tomorrow, God willing). This can go on for days, sometimes even weeks! Even with the longer gaps between bookings (since the full effects of the revolution tricked down to our backwards little town) we still haven't had a period where I was confident of completing the task.

Anyway, after many a visit to Ahmed Hashim's shop, and several others, (and hours of Freda's concerted financial calculations) we made our final decisions about exactly what we wanted to do, and started to source the various bits and bobs which we would require to make our guest bathroom into the luxurious place that our guests really deserved. We'd made a start with the new counter-top washbasin etc, and want to carry on with the addition of a more spacious and stylish shower enclosure complete with the (must have) 'rainfall' shower, and also the alternative of a water and power saving 'Eco' shower, as well. It's not actually up to us to enforce environmental awareness or practices onto our guests, but it's nice to give them options, isn't it?

Never mind, all was going swimmingly; finance secured, shower tray and enclosure chosen, pipework and plumbing fittings etc purchased, the Ideal Standard plumber had made a site visit and acquainted himself with the job at hand, even his charges had been agreed! So, the other night I got buckled in and removed the quarter circle enclosure, the towel rail, and the shiny black toilet seat (in case it got damaged)

and (at five past midnight) started to chisel away at the tiles around the shower tray. I'd just got started when there came a banging on the wall, presumably the people next door wanted to sleep? I hadn't actually realised the lateness of the hour, but you know how it is when you're enjoying yourself? Reluctantly, I left it till a more considerate time.

You can imagine my mixture of  despair and relief when Ahmed Hashim telephoned me, later that morning, and told me that the shower tray was not available until after one month, because of its unusual size. My despair was at not being able to finish the job before our next guests arrive, and the great relief was that the neighbours had objected to my banging away after midnight, and completely destroying the current shower into the bargain!

I was also pleased that I had decided to try to sell the old shower enclosure, and had therefore removed it properly and carefully, without damage; pheeewww! It didn't take long to reinstate everything, with the only trace of interference being a few chisel marks on one of the pieces of tile below the actual shower tray, I think we'll get away with that, though.

It's all to do with Horsepower!

Well well! It seems no time at all since we had problems with our A/C, but like the daytime and the night, they are bound to come around. And, of course whenever that time is, it's when you actually need them to be working properly, it's been reaching towards the 50 degree mark on some afternoons here on our little roof terrace!

I'm sure that you will have heard the old adage that "You get what you pay for." It sure seems that it's true as far as A/C units go, here's a little FREE word of advice "DON'T BUY 'AMERICOOL' AIR CONDITIONERS". I won't bore you with the saga of our multifarious air-conditioning units and their differing configurations, suffice it to say that because it's hot, they won't work.  

Obviously, in this unseasonable heat and without the benefit of the A/C, sleeping becomes difficult and tempers tend to become ragged,  adding to the general sense of unrest. You, being a regular aficionado of my ramblings Dear Reader, will no doubt recall the nightmare scenarios with the various A/C 'engineers' with whom we've dealt in the past. I've thankfully blotted their names from my memory, and we now have a reliable and knowledgeable engineer. He arrived almost on time to have a look at the Americool, one and a half horsepower, unit in our bedroom.

I knew that it required a good clean out, and that this should increase it's effectiveness, but I was appalled at the amount of muck that came out of it:

After half stripping the unit down, they washed it in our bathroom, with the shower hose and a little 'Gener-Al*' floor cleaner. (* That's how it's pronounced, it's really called 'General'.) Naturally, being Egyptian, they left the floor and everything for us to clean after they'd left.

Although I had expected a marked improvement, I wasn't prepared to be nearly blown off my feet by the reinvigorated blast of cold air emitting from the unit! Thankfully, the temperature has dropped a little since it was cleaned, so everything has been hunky-dory, but I'm fully expecting the worst, once the temperature rises again to over 45/46. I've asked the man to return and do the same to the other one we have, at his earliest convenience! Even though I am delighted with the change in performance, I really think that a better quality A/C unit would be the job, and maybe a two horsepower one, just to make sure.

Talking about 'horsepower': last night we had the privilege of being the very first people to be pulled along by Farid, the latest of Mr Ahmed Badawi's horses to be trained as a carriage horse. We'd been scoffing English cake at the Nile Palace, and had rang Ahmed to come and collect us, as we had quite a bit of shopping to get and carry home. He turned up with brother Samir driving what looked like a very small horse (in comparison to Edward, our usual trusty steed) in between the shafts. Ahmed was very excited, and told us that they were giving Farid his first solo lesson, just for an hour or so. I'm sure that many of you will have seen caleches with a younger, smaller horse tied to the one actually pulling the caleche along; this is the first stage in their training and it gets them used to the traffic and noise with which they will have to contend during their working lives.

Farid performed admirably, except for not being able to keep the conveyance in a straight line, and having a little difficulty negotiating left-hand turns. He wasn't yet used to answering the guidance of the reins. We had a good old laugh as poor Ahmed had to keep leaping to the ground to steer Farid away from parked cars, or around a tight corner before he ran straight into a wall!!! (Actually, I was rather worried that Ahmed would end up under the carriage wheels!)

We even ventured into the chaotic traffic of Television Street and Manchia, places we try to keep clear of with the caleche in  normal circumstances, where Farid seemed to not even notice the surrounding Bedlam! I'm sure that his father (Edward) will be proud of him as he gets bigger, stronger and more confident. It was 'cool' to see this part of his training, and I was really pleased at Ahmed's and Samir's patience and gentleness with the young horse. 10 out of 10, I think.

Cake Comparisons?

I think I'm turning into a sort of sandwich-board-man for the Steigenberger Nile Palace! Don't worry, I'm not 'in their pocket', but it's not for the want of trying. (There's no way that I can induce them to give me a discount or preferential treatment of any kind, the mean so-and-so's!!!)

Did I tell you about the Winter Palace putting on a cover charge? Well (you know my memory) just in case I haven't; they've decided to levy an entrance fee of 50le, which can be reclaimed against whatever you spend whilst you're in the hotel. Obviously, we really cannot afford to fork out twice as much as normal, just to enjoy the splendid 'olde worlde' charm of the place. I know that tourists can recoup it with just a couple of beers or a cocktail, but that's a whole different kettle of fish!

So, we're visiting our other two choices of hotel more often. The good old Etap (El Luxor Hotel) is still OK, but there seems to be fewer and fewer foreign tourists staying there to provide us with our little 'light entertainment'. The tea and Nescafe are the same price as at the Nile Palace, but you don't get the little, half chocolate coated, coconut macaroons. But, in saying that, the Etap does advertise free English cake between four o'clock and six. Mind you, this is a bit hitty-missy! Often there's non to be had at all, and sometimes it's still frozen, and has to be defrosted before serving. This invariably means that you've finished your tea before it arrives! Even then, it's possibly still frozen in the middle, or hot enough to burn your lips! When it's not free, it's 10le for two slices.

The old Food and Beverage Manager left the Nile Palace a few weeks ago. He was a nice bloke, whom we'd surreptitiously Christened 'Mao Tse Tung', because of his slightly oriental appearance. His replacement looks nothing out of the ordinary, and has no real distinguishing facets, in fact, he could easily be mistaken for an Englishman. So, that's his new name; 'The Englishman'! Along with being a hands-on manager (we came across him shifting tables the other night) he's also trying new things on the menu.

That above is what we've had there the past two nights. Yes, it's English cake, but unlike any we've had previously. It's coated down either side with icing sugar, and it's actually lightly spiced, utterly scrumptious! And, three goodly sized pieces for 13le! By the time Freda and I have messed about with pots of boiling water and the hot milk for her Nescafe, I easily managed four cups of tea, and she, three cups of coffee. Half a slice of cake with each of the first three cups and the coconut macaroon with the last. I can tell you; you certainly know you've had something to eat! (And people to watch all the way through, what more could a man want?)

I've got to hand it to the management and staff at the NP, they're making the running for the rest to follow, and they're bloomin' good at it and getting better!

Just as a little aside:

As we were taking a stroll along the Corniche, we came across some caleche horses bathing, there must have been about 10 of them cavorting among the dead Nile cruisers. They were certainly enjoying the cooling effect. It's funny that they're next to the Emely, as several would-be cruise tourists are still being offered this boat. Sorry, but I don't think so!
TTFN.

Yalla, President Mohamed, when are you going to get things moving?

We've just been watching an episode of 'Foyle's War', it's an excellent series. It's got me wondering though; I cannot help but wonder just how those men, those who weren't allowed to actually 'join up', really felt about not doing their bit for the war effort by being at the (metaphorical) front, about their seeming uselessness?

That strand of thought also echoed in my mind as regards Luxor's situation in this time of so much uncertainty and fear among the general Egyptian population!

In one way, here in Luxor, we've really been uninfected by all the trouble and strife which regularly seems to erupt in Cairo and the other northern 'hot-spots', about which we keep on reading and seeing on our TV screens.  But the people here in Luxor aren't at all happy with Mr Morsi's current handling of things; simply because they feel that they are being sacrificed for the sake of their northern compatriots! I hear grumblings about the 'men-with-beards' everywhere I go! It seems fairly obvious to me that the people of Luxor want no more to do with either the modern and liberal revolutionaries, or the Brotherhood and their hardline friends. The revolution's legacy of physical and financial hardship and (seemingly deliberately engineered) disadvantage are driving them to wish for the return of Mr Mubarak, or one of his henchmen (Shafiq?) at least!

I cannot tell you how many of my Egyptian friends have often regaled me, over the years, about the Egyptian 'life' being one of continual hardship. They understand this, and have learned to accept it without much complaint, as they have been doing during several thousands of years of being oppressed by despotic rulers; from Pharaohs to the Arabs, from the Turks to the Egyptian Generals, and that's not even mentioning the differing European interlopers! But it now seems that the current mish-mash which purports to be governing them, is going too far!

As well as there being next to no tourists from which the locals can make their living, there are now electricity (and water) cuts, without warning, three four and five times per day! Thank heaven, we've only had the one so far today (Thursday), but yesterday we had three; for an hour just before lunchtime, another hour at about 4:30 in the afternoon, and a third at 10:30 for an hour and forty minutes! With the outside temperature being over 47 degrees Centigrade that afternoon, and the walls of our little flat being too hot to keep your hand on; we baled out by 5pm, and sought the air-conditioned refuge of the Nile Palace. The mini-bus stopped, however, at the junction with St Joseph Street, as Khaled Ibn El Walid Street was blocked a few yards farther on. We had to walk from there.

The road blockage was outside the house of the General of the Police (that one directly before the Sonesta). There were about four women and half a dozen young men and boys sitting in the middle of the road! Several of the men and boys were in the middle of their prayerful prostrations. One young man was very highly agitated and very emotional. Of course, I asked  some bystanders what the problem was; only to be told that these people were making many demands of the police.(?)

In a telephone call later that evening, I was told that (so far) 15 people had died in Luxor as a direct result of these power cuts! Perhaps that was the reason for the emotional 'sit down' outside the General's house? Who knows? The power cuts were certainly the reason behind the protest outside the Governor's office this afternoon! Even Egyptians, can only take so much!

But still, Luxor isn't Cairo! I have hoped that Mr Morsi was the good man that he originally seemed to be, even though he and I don't share the same views on religion, and that he actually was determined (as he had said he was) to govern "for all Egyptians", but it's beginning to seem as though the population of Upper Egypt are being punished for the waywardness of the northerners who took the road to revolution and are now constantly making waves against the elected President and what passes for his government.

As usual; the Upper Egyptians are left to sink or swim, and with their ingrained sense of oppressed victimhood they must surely now feel desolate indeed! God bless them and help them, for as the unrelenting 50 degree heat of summer, plus the spectre of starvation, looms, they certainly need it!

Another Fine Mess!!!!

We're back! Not a bad flight with our friends easyJet:

I had stocked up with a selection of pies from John the butcher in Pelaw, and thoroughly enjoyed my two, with a relatively large slice of his lovely black pudding! My 'tablet' Christmas gift and headphones were also a great boon, as I now have even more of my depressing music on it (that's Freda's opinion) and I could listen to it without being harassed! Five and a half hours of a mixture of Steeleye, the Watersons, Swan Arcade, Sonny Boy Williamson, Cream, the Stones, Melanie Safka, the Spooky Men, Bob Dylan and the incomparable Leonard Cohen, and many others who don't get much of an airing on today's wireless!

For the first time I can remember, I had a window seat on the port side, so made the most of it by taking a picture or two:

It must be de rigueur to have a shot of the coastline as one passes over? And the desolate wastes of the desert I always find curiously enticing! I cannot help but imagine myself along with John Mills, struggling through the Qattara Depression in that old Austin ambulance in the wonderful film "Ice Cold in Alex".

Did I ever tell you that I used to be a member of the 'Sons of the Desert'? "What, what?" I can almost hear you cry.

Actually, it's the title of a 1933 Laurel and Hardy movie; that just might give the game away as to what and who the 'Sons of the Desert' were and are. That's right Dear Reader, we were and are fans of the most hilarious double act ever created; Stan Laurel and Oliver 'Babe' Hardy. Here's an advert for the film:

The various (worldwide) groups of fans were organised into 'Tents' (pretty obvious, eh?) and held regular meetings where at least one film would be watched, lots of booze drunk (except by those teetotallers [guess who] who would be driving their drunken mates home, of course) and memorabilia pored over and swapped etc.

Our Tent was at North Shields, once the home town of Stan Laurel before he went to the USA and made it big. We also had occasional visits to other Tents, and I remember well going to the Tent at Carlisle, I provided the coach which I drove myself. (I decided to wear my bowler hat, just for effect, and the man who ran the Carlisle Tent asked if I always wore it while driving!) He also ran the 'Laurel and Hardy Museum' at Ulverston, Stan's birthplace, and the 'Cars of the Stars' motor museum in Carlisle, which were both very interesting. I wonder if they're still there?

Anyway, I'm sure that there cannot be many of you who haven't heard, or didn't recognise, that most famous of quotes from our big fat mate Ollie: "That's another fine mess you've gotten me into!" Which brings me back to part of the subject of today's offering; we came back to Luxor, and a right old mess! Although, not in the strictly accurate meaning of the word 'mess', what we actually had (or not) was NO WATER!

Apparently, the water pump had been operating by itself when no-one was in the flat. Being worried that the pump would burn itself out, Adam (Coffeeshop Adam from over the road) had turned off the water and switched off the pump. He also had a 'plumber' out to see what the trouble was. Being a 'really plumber', he checked everything in the flat before fiddling with the adjustments of the electronic 'Automatique' and the pressure regulating valve, whilst not noticing that the water filter, in its see-through cannister, was actually clogged solid! (OK, I was supposed to change the filters and switch off the water before we left, but I forgot; I've already been reprimanded and had my chocolate rations withheld!)

Poor Freda had to cope with the unpacking and initial cleaning (so we could at least get into bed) by herself, while I found friend 'Hani the Plumber' and we tried to get something moving. Eventually, I decided that it wasn't the 'Automatique', which Hani was convinced that it was, but that the pressure regulator had been screwed right down till it wouldn't allow water through at all! After stripping, cleaning and adjusting the regulator, we managed to get the pump to work, but only by switching it on and off manually; the 'Automatique' was actually faulty and has been replaced last night. It was really good of Hani and his mate Ayman to come out and sort it out for us, as they are both Coptic Christians and yesterday was their 'Good Friday'!

Having my dodgy legs, still, I'm not overly fussed about traipsing up and down ladders at the moment, not that I ever was mind you! So we've had our carpenter mate Abdu, from New Karnak, back to do the finishing off of the fascia on the new roof. It entailed another couple of sheets of the Islamic patterned latticework and 20 metres of architrave, but that's not all. He's coming back tomorrow to try and get it finished before Monday. As you should all know, Dear Readers, Monday is the Pharaonic festival of 'Sniffing the Breeze', where both Christians and Muslims join together to welcome in the Summer. (Or, is it more to do with the expected 'inundation' does anyone know?) Whatever! I expect that it'll be difficult to find anyone willing to work on that day.

Here are a couple of pics, just to remind you of how we left the new roof when we went on holiday to Windy Nook:

Mentioning Easter, reminded me that they're getting on with our new Coptic Church! The bell-tower lights are busy being sorted out:

I promise that I'll get you a better picture eventually.

Copy-catting is still as rife as ever here. I was surprised to see the coach in the following picture. It looks brand new, and has Neoplan badges on the front. It's a two axle Neoplan Cityliner, but they don't make them anymore.

 A-ha, all was revealed when it passed me! Although I didn't have time to get a snap, you can believe me when I tell you that the back panel and rear window were all wrong, and it had Chinese badges all over!!!!!!

On top of everything else which is currently going wrong here in Egypt, there is now a shortage of bottled drinking water! The mains tap water is actually quite safe to drink here in Luxor. Although I wouldn't recommend drinking it for long periods (Egyptians seem to suffer a lot of urinary tract problems) I firmly believe that the high concentration of chlorine in it would kill 99% of all known germs. (That sounds familiar, doesn't it?) Our filter system removes the sand particles down to 5 microns, and the activated carbon filter is supposed to remove the taste of the chlorine before it gets to the actual taps. But I still prefer the taste of the bottled vintage!

It seems, however, that at least one well from which the bottled water is drawn has become contaminated, and has been closed down, and Nestle (who produce 60% of the bottled water in Egypt) had a fire which has seriously disrupted their production. It's not looking too good, and it's against the law to import drinking water! I'd better find some before our next guests arrive on Wednesday, hadn't I?

I'd better be off to bed now, or I won't be getting up in the morning. Good  night, and God bless.

Sing, sing all earth!

Well, on our last Sunday before returning to sunnier climes, I had the opportunities to sing in the bass chorus of Olivet to Calvary at Springwell Chapel, in the afternoon, and join in with the 'congregational' singing at the South Shields Folk Club in the evening. A full day, but I was unable to make the evening service at our own place at Windy Nook, due to stuffing my face at the Faith Tea after the Cantata and not arriving home till almost 5.45!

The Cantata is the same one we sang at Windy Nook on Good Friday, only with a few more voices in the choir, so I'd had several practices before that. With the extra practice last Wednesday, I should have been OK; after all I'd been singing it every other year for about 40 years previous to moving to Luxor!!!

Brother-in-law Roy, chose not to actually sing this time. He would sit in the congregation with my mother. Mmmmm, perhaps he could be persuaded to take a few pics with my easy-to-use Samsung camera? Good old Roy, always game for a laugh! Trouble was, the camera decided to not work for him. (He probably doesn't have the tender, caressing touch that the camera is used to!)

I took it from him and snapped..........

By this time, quite a number had disappeared into the hall to partake of the Faith Tea. I was stopped on my way by two ladies whom I hadn't seen for about 40 years! We had quite a chin-wag about the days when we made up the 'Young People' of our respective chapels, what a hoot; two flash birds who had suddenly transformed into two 67 year old 'old bags'!!!! (In truth, they were still very good looking, but a bit old for a youngster like me at 62!) By the time I got to where the goodies were arrayed, there were only a few sausage rolls left in the savoury section, but there were cakes aplenty! Different types of chocolate cake, two or three different sponge sandwich cakes, some delightful little scones with jam and cream plus a host of 'Mr Kipling' type (bought, as opposed to home-made) tarts and buns etc. I sampled one or two (?) with a few cups of 'Chapel Tea'. 'Chapel Tea' is invariably too strong for my delicate taste buds, but I managed with the addition of an extra bit of boiling water.

On eventually getting a lift home, I had a half hour nap on the sofa before making some nice Ceylon tea and then making my way across to our Chapel to cadge a lift to South Shields with our Susan and Roy. We were going to see a singing group called GU4, pronounced Guffaw. (About GU4)

In case you aren't aware of how British folk clubs generally operate: They are peopled by folk song afficionadoes who sing or play (or both) folk music of various types. Most members will perform in front of the others as they meet week on week, and depending on the club finances, they might have special paid guests now and then who might be professional or at least semi-professional. This week at South Shields, we had the very famous professional Benny (The Whale) Graham, not as the guest, but just as a visiting singer! There were also a few others who were semi-professional in the gathering (our Susan knew most of them, but I didn't know them from Adam!) I managed to get a video of GU4 which is short enough to put on here. They aren't everyone's cup of tea, but their music and style are right up my street!

They asked two of their semi-professional friends who were in  the audience (Barrie and Ingrid Temple: http://lfd.org.uk/temples/) to join them for their last encore, they are on the right of the picture. (They sang earlier just as a duo, and were tremendous.)

That's just about it for now, I think. Insh'Allah, my next posting will be from our home in Luxor, where we'll be spending the next week or so cleaning out five weeks worth of the Sahara before our next guests arrive. (They're on their honeymoon, I do hope that they find our place romantic enough!!!!!)

Toodle pip!

Sounds good to me?

Yes, that's what I said last week, and this week; 'the proof of the pudding was in  the eating'. (That's a bit of a proverb, in English.) We ended up back at Hexham on Saturday the 27th, especially to visit the 'Eating Festival'.

We came towards the town centre from the bottom end, where the local 'bus garage used to be, and managed to get the last parking space in the car park opposite the old Tannery and near the Public Baths. My legs haven't been too good, so I was thankful that I wouldn't have too far walk. We were up the street and next to our favourite 'Ashbourne House' in  no time, among musicians who were playing and singing some dreadful (Lennon sounding) pop song! Just on the (closed) road there, was a stall selling 'Chai and Tiffen', but we were too eager to get inside the shop to stop and try some.

On opening the door, I was surprised to find a very large camera lens about a foot from my face and pointing straight at me! It was a big movie camera as well, and wielded by a young girl who didn't look strong enough to pick it up, never mind control it. We found that we were sharing our favourite junk shop with one of the 'experts' whom I've seen on the telly on one of those antiques programmes, where members of the public contend with each other with the 'expert's' help. With it being the day of the Spring Fair and Eating Festival, the town was very busy, and the shop had far too many people in it for safety. Not 'Elf-n-Safety' you understand, it's just that there's very little space between the fragile stock of glass, china and other breakable goodies etc on the main floor to start with, never mind having a camera crew battling for space too!

We came across a lovely wooden rocking duck, which I immediately envisaged little Coco sitting in. It wasn't badly priced, either, but Freda was frightened that he might fall out of it; end of story! Actually, there were a fair number of bits and pieces which we would have not had a second thought about carrying home in years gone by. But times change, as do priorities and space to display such delectable 'treasures', so we left empty-handed.

The Iranian man's lovely shop, over the road, had the usual "Back in 10 minutes" sign in the door, we haven't seen it open since we bought the table cloths (made in Esfahan) from him about 6 or 7 years ago! We slowly made our way up to the Market Place, where we came across our first dancers of the day:

I didn't know how long the dance would last, so stopped filming where I did, only to find that it finished about 10 seconds later! Here's the final scene;

These were men from 'Hexham Morris'; more of them later.  

This was outside the Abbey, and just a little farther on is the entrance to the park, where it was ALL happening! Another music group were just inside the gates, but they were busy tuning-up and things, so we just passed on to the tent village where every sort of craft imaginable was either for sale or on show. (A jar of lovely home-made lemon curd found its way into Freda's bag.) Farther on, we came across what was passing for a 'Classic Car' display, all we could see at first was a line of Minis!

Never  mind, we soon left the 'Minilite' (non-standard) alloy-wheeled BMC products behind, as we came across a few more interesting marques:

Not that the '71 MGB was all that interesting, but the beautiful Lagonda standing next to it was a cracker! As were the '64 Rover and the memory rekindling Ford Thames pick-up. Strangely (or so I thought) there were two old (think the Maigret TV series of the sixties) Citroens, and a really old (possibly 'vintage') Renault, plus a pristine LHD Yankee Model "T" Ford. Obviously, I didn't bother taking pictures of these foreign interlopers!

Next were the food tents!!!! We made a bee-line for the "HOGROAST" (another 'obviously' I dare say!):

I would apologise for the inclusion of this part to my Muslim friends, but they've never had the opportunity to taste this delicacy in a big soft bap (bread bun) with lashings of apple sauce and a generous spread of sage and onion stuffing; oh, what a joy, and oh, what they're missing!!!!

When I arose from the table to find a bin for the wrappings, I heard someone call my name. "Who could possibly be here who knew me?" I thought. I could hardly  believe my eyes when they beheld a large, fully-grown, man who had the face of a twelve year old boy who I used to take to school when I had mini-buses! Of course that was a few years ago.

Thomas Foden; Site Security Man (and general 'bouncer'!) I was delighted to see him, but I was also shocked in equal measure to find out that he was now 39! (And a bouncer for 20 years!) It also came as quite a surprise that he should have recognised me, with my white hair and everything, after some 27 years or so. (Then again, I do realise that I've managed to keep most of my youthful good looks, as those of you who know me personally will no doubt testify!) I was very encouraged to think that I'd made enough of an impression upon that young lad all those years ago, that he should not only remember me, but want to make himself known to me and renew our acquaintance as well.

The next musical group we came across was the Hexham Town Band. What a mix of different instruments! No brass to see or hear, but guitars, ukuleles, a banjo, fiddles galore; melodeons and a piano accordion and at least one '48 key' English concertina (hidden away at the back), a saxophone and a flute:

The '48 key English concertina, which looks (from this angle) to be exactly the same as mine!

The players seemed to be a rather eclectic bunch as well; from hippies to housewives, and pot-smokers to professors! Actually, there were a goodly numbers of renegade hippies 'floating' about. (Peace and Love, man!) I was, on more than one occasion, almost tempted to laugh out loud! I always feel that it's so sad to come across people who refuse to grow up. Of course we all hanker after the times before we became responsible people with jobs and family to consider; but if we all decide to 'drop out', Dear Reader, then who will provide us with the things we all need on a daily basis?

Never mind all that, this isn't a political blog!!!!!!!!!!!!

Before too long here came the Hexham Morris again:

Sorry about the quality, but as you know I'm not the best when it comes to technology! However, I've found the size settings for the video bit on the camera, so just filmed the original while playing it on the lap-top; simple!

I love to watch stick dancing, in either of my home countries. Of course they're very different; in Luxor it's more commonly known as stick fighting, I suppose that the Sayidis might consider dancing to be a rather effeminate pass-time! Nevertheless, they're both great to watch, and, I should imagine, great to participate in! (I'd love to see a Morris crew turn up at the stick dancing at Luxor's moulid! Wouldn't it be great?) 

We'd seen most of what we really wanted to and, as it had turned quite chilly, we started to make our way down through the park towards where the car was parked. As we neared the bowling green, we could see that the old guys were setting things up for a match, and it must have been a big one, as all the green was to be utilised. Just then, the sun came out from behind the clouds, and I thought that it would be  nice to get a few minutes of the  bowling on camera, just for you, Dear Reader. I got a couple of decent shots of the green while we waited:

OK, the other one wasn't very good, so I've spared you having to look at it! In the event, we sat for about 20 minutes (till the sun again disappeared behind the gathering clouds, and it turned cold again) before realising that the match would probably start at 2 o'clock, which was 4 minutes after our 3 hour parking ticket expired. So we decided to push off, rather than win a parking fine! 

While we wondered around, I had just had to have a cup of tea (as you might have guessed) and this time we tried a larger cafe on the main through-road. (I cannot now remember the name.) I had a large piece of warmed ginger cake with my cuppa, and Freda tried their lemon sponge sandwich cake, I think I'm safe to say that we'd both have them again! The biggest drawback, other than the size of the place, was the very steep angle of the stairs which led to the toilets; looking down from the top, it made me dizzy! 

All in all, another example of what a good 'day out', Hexham can be, well done!

Didn't we have a loverly time the day we went to .......................Hexham!

I suppose that it'll be only the English reader (and even then, probably not many?) who might recognise the plagiarism involved with the title of this post? So, for those of you to whom it's just a statement with a misspelling; here's where the original came from: 

Even if the weather's not too grand, we do like having a trip out to the Northumberland market town of Hexham, it's different! Invariably, either on the way there or on the way back, we call at one of our favourite little tea shops. It's in the village of Mickley Square, which lies directly on the A695 midway between Prudhoe and Stocksfield.

(Mickley Square is also where visitors can find 'Cherryburn'; the birthplace of the famous Northumbrian artist and engraver Thomas Bewick, which is now owned and cared for by the National Trust.
More info at http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/cherryburn/visitor-information/ )

Anyway, back to the tea shop! Here it is, as you can see, it's called by the strange name of "Jiggery Pokery".

As well as being a little gem of a teashop, they also sell antiques and bric-a-brac. Some absolutely fascinating pieces, as well! How about their long case clock?

Oh look; it's 'P' to 'G'!!!

We enjoy the lovely atmosphere of Jiggery Pokery, the owners and staff are very nice, and of course the snacks and cakes are to die for! I was quite taken aback, when (after ordering a tea, a coffee and a toasted tea-cake) the chap brought two plates, it seemed that our Luxor reputation for thrift had arrived before us! (As most of you already know, hotel staff in Luxor are used to providing us with two plates, as we generally share one meal.) But just have a gander at these cakes:

There's plenty of seating, as well, the shop entrance is on street level and it's full of interesting stuff. There's some very pleasant repro furniture alongside lovely antique pieces, and jumbled up in display cases are some really rare finds! (There were two beautiful glass and silver claret jugs, but too expensive for the likes of us.) At the back of this room there are about 6 steps up to the main teashop part of the premises, where there are about 5 tables, through another doorway they have several more tables, mixed in among the antiques etc.

 Ever onwards, we made our way along to Hexham. The charity shops here can (and do) turn up with some really choice articles! And, there are plenty of them, even a Buddhist one!

Our favourite Hexham shop is "Ashbourne House". It's choc-a-block full of antiques, junk, bric-a-brac, works of art and painting by numbers! It spreads over three floors and we just love it! Nevertheless, today it was closed. Mondays and Thursdays, we'll know for the next visit!

Never mind, we still had a few charity shops to browse through, and then to the "Cornmill Cafe" for our usual Welsh rarebit with mango chutney. We couldn't find it, how was that? No, it hadn't moved, we'd just walked past it; and it was also closed, but (horror of horrors) closed for good!

Wandering around the shops near the Market Place, we came across Robin the Busker, playing his melodeon. He was great, but he must have been a touch on the cold side!

Eventually, we ended up at "Mr's Miggin's Coffeeshop" which was perfectly adequate, but sadly a bit of a disappointment after being hyped up for my Welsh Rarebit!

We were parked near the fabulous Hexham Abbey:

Hexham has a great number of good quality shopping opportunities as well as it's charity sector, it also hosts different festivals etc. throughout the year For instance, on the 27th of April there is the Spring Fair and Hexham 'Eating Festival'! That sounds good to me!

By the time we left for home, we'd only spent a few pounds, but had an enjoyable time. The only real grumble was that I'd had to wear my coat, as it was very blustery and really quite cold. Never mind, we'll soon be on our way back to Luxor. Perhaps then, I can find something to write about that might actually interest you, Dear Reader!

Our Royal connection?

My younger brother is a bit of a genealogist and has spent a great deal of time over the past year or so compiling a book about our our recent family background. The idea was to collect and collate the memories of those of us who were still living in order for our future generations to have an interesting record of their forbears lives and experiences, and a general point of reference. My sister Susan was also involved in the printing and binding, and they hoped to have it privately published in time to give copies of it to our three children for Christmas. One of the reasons why it didn't get finished on time, was that I kept remembering little snippets which I thought shouldn't be left out.

When it did, finally, get done; we'd already departed for the foreign shores of our beloved Egypt, so didn't receive our copy until we got back here, just the other week.

I'm really impressed with the end result! Not only is it a great read, but it also looks and feels like a very professional job.

My maternal grandma was a Makepeace, a name which originated only in the English county of Durham. Our family connection to royalty stems from the daughter of our King Edward the second and his French wife Isabella. Born on 5th July 1321 in the Tower of London, she was consequently known as 'Joan of the Tower'. (But also, sometimes, as Joanna.) Joan was eventually married off to the son of 'Robert the Bruce', the King of Scotland as a major part of a peace treaty between the two warring countries. Joan subsequently became known as 'Joan of the Tower, make peace'!   While David (King Robert's son) was held prisoner at Neville's Cross (then a village to the west of Durham city) and presumably during one of her secret visits to him, she conceived a child, the offspring of whom actually adopted the name of Makepeace as their family name.

I'm not sure exactly what it was which was prompting me, around Christmastime, to revisit a rather spectacular grave in the cemetery of St Mary's Church at Heworth (quite near our home), but in the event, I didn't get! As our visit home for Easter neared, I again had this grave on my mind and determined to visit it on this occasion. It's a grave where the 'headstone' is a very elaborate affair, in the form of a four-poster bed with three sleeping children in it, very poignant. I knew that it was a Makepeace grave, but had no idea that our Richard was going to write about that section of the family in such detail, or include the story behind the grave!



I had intended to Blog the story of how the children all died in their bed after a candle had set fire to the bedroom curtains; it's just as well that I hadn't done it at Christmas, or else I'd have had to retract it very shortly afterwards!

I came across the same story in our 'Book', but Richard doesn't just take things at face value, and had therefore corrected this myth! The children actually all died at separate times, thus debunking the tale which had been passed down! Nevertheless, it's still a very sad monument to behold:

A family crest is displayed on the back, rather gruesome with the severed leg etc:

Anyway, seeing as I cannot report on what's going on in Luxor at the moment, I thought I'd just 'blow my own trumpet' a bit. By the way, there's really no need to bow when we next meet! Tarra.